Kolkata grapples with short supply and rocketing prices of fresh fish

Kolkata, Aug 29 Exports to Bangladesh and online sales have led to a drop in supply and spiralling of prices of quality freshwater fish in Kolkata markets.

Katla (a large carp), weighing over 5 kg that the Bengali desires for his fish kalia, has all but disappeared from markets. All that are available are 3-4 kg fish from local ponds or 'bheris'. Fish from 'bheris' are cultivated and have no taste, says Suvendu Mukherjee, a fish-lover who has been following this trend.

"Till a couple of years ago, we would get Katla weighing 12-14 kg. These used to be the wild variety found in canals and near dams in states like Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh. These fish would be caught there and transported to West Bengal and sold. They had lesser fat and fewer bones. They were a treat when cooked in a 'kalia'. We would pay Rs 450-500 per kg for that variety of fish. They have disappeared from the markets now," Mukherjee says.

Fish trader Ramesh Shaw agrees.

"While the local Katla used to be sold for Rs 300 a kg, we would sell the 10-14 kg variety for Rs 450 on weekends. Nowadays, anything weighing above 5 kg is picked up, packed in ice and transported to Bangladesh. Even the Aar or Singhara (a catfish loved by Bengalis and Punjabis alike) is in short supply. Anything above 1.5 kg is being exported. We are left with the smaller fish that we have to sell for Rs 1,000-1,200 a kg. The customers aren't happy," he says.

India is the largest exporter of fresh water fish (chilled) to Bangladesh. As it is, there is a shortage of quality fish in West Bengal. Though the state tops the country in fish production, it consumes much more and has to be supplied by fish farms in Andhra Pradesh and other southern states. However, the connoisseurs aren't ready to have the Andhra variety.

"Why worry about the large Katla? Even quality Tilapia is not available. All are getting picked up at the wholesale hubs for export or online trading. Large 'Koi' (the natural variety) are being picked up in bulk for Rs 700-800 a kg. We are left with the cultured variety that nobody wants to buy.

"Online shopping is killing us silently. They purchase in bulk at Rs 700-800 per kg, clean and gut the fish sell it at Rs 1,200-1,300 per kg. We don't stand a chance. The pandemic has finished us off in more ways than one. Customers have got used to receiving everything at home and a ready to pay extra," fish trader Shyamal Roy says.

It is a bit like the fruit market in West Bengal. Recently, a Gujarati couple from Rajkot were shocked when they went to purchase apples at a shop in Kolkata. The rate was Rs 140 per kg.

"But we get this same variety at Rs 80 per kg back home," the lady argued.

"There, your traders don't have to participate in an auction against those buying in bulk for sale in Bangladesh. They offer any price. In Bangladesh, only the affluent have access to fruits and a kg of apple sells for Rs 200-220," the shop owner said.

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